Meet Antoine!

Last week was a sad time in the kitchen.  My most valuable and reliable assistant left us.  Anyone who knows me knows the esteem, care and affection I give to the most important help in my kitchen.  Without my assistant, my kitchen comes to a screeching halt as it did last week.

Our trusty, 22 year old refrigerator, Julia, decided she was a celebrity and joined the ranks of Farrah, Michael, Ed and Billy.  She died.  She didn’t sputter or sigh, she simply stopped.

She led a happy, long life in quality service to our family and friends providing chilled and preserved refreshments for many years.  In fact, her constant humming helped many a small pup or babe to fall asleep on a cushiony mat on the floor.

Out of respect for Julia, we refrained from marketing, harvesting or cooking for most of the last week.  She floundered in the kitchen with her doors propped ajar until the appliance morticians appeared to remove her remains.  Scrubbed with care to a sanitary shine, her insides rested atop the patio table covered with a soft, flannel-backed vinyl tablecloth.

Today, in spite of the national holiday, the appliance mortician finally arrived for Julia.  In her stead, we received Antoine, a young and strong refrigerator eager to be of service for several decades to come.

Antoine’s name honors the famed agronomist, Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, (quite possibly my idol).  Parmentier was one of the first to study the process of refrigeration as a means of conserving food, was a strident promoter of the potato (my favorite food), the first to implement a mandatory smallpox vaccination (world health anyone?) in addition to founding a school of bread making (gotta love a guy who does that!).

Considering these achievements, which I revere, our new, aptly named kitchen assistant, Antoine, joins us to carry on in the good service of any cook who dances a flavorful waltz in our kitchen with the array of fun and useful instruments at their service.

Upon Antoine’s arrival, our neighbors all declared, “That ‘fridge means delicious, delicious business.”  We all hope so!

Cashew Chicken, My Way

Chinese style stir frying is a wonderful cooking method, especially for summertime, that uses a minimum of oil and high heat to rapidly sear the food, cook it to perfection and flavor it almost all at the same time.  Stir-frying works equally well on the indoor stovetop as it does on a grill, keeping kitchen heat to a minimum if not nil.

Since all the equipment required is a wok (or sauté pan) and a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle, clean up takes mere minutes.  I use a cutting board to hold all the chopped vegetables before using, a small bowl for the proteins, and a small pitcher (or two cup pyrex measuring cup) for the sauce.

Most of my Asian style recipes are flexible guides.  I like to change ingredients according to seasons as well as switching or even mixing proteins.  If you feel like eating seafood more than chicken, by all means make the substitution.  Just be sure to change your cooking time and ingredient order accordingly.

The sauce in this recipe has been tested on pork, poultry, tofu and seafood.  It works very well with each of them.  My inclination was not to use beef with it because it’s such a very light sauce and I have better suited, heavier sauces to use with beef.

For a vegetarian meal, omit the animal protein and increase the vegetable amounts and/or variety.  Go ahead and put your own signature on this dish.  It’s a good one to keep in mind following a visit to the Farmers Market too!  My recipe changes every time I make this meal.

Ingredients, approximately:

4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts or 8 thighs
1 medium sized red pepper, seeded and deveined, julienned
1/2 pound mushrooms
4 green onions, slice white portion, cut green tops into 1” lengths
1/2 pound pea pods and/or 2 cups broccoli sliced into small florets
1 can (15 oz) bamboo shoots, drained
1 heaping Tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
2 large garlic cloves, chopped finely
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 Tablespoons aji mirin or dry sherry
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3-4 Tablespoons peanut oil, approximately
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil (the real stuff—not kikkoman)
4 oz. cashew nuts or more depending on your preferences
(Bean sprouts, optional)

Serve over white rice, brown rice, quinoa, or your favorite grain. Rice or pasta noodles work well too.

Begin by preparing the grain or pasta.  Set aside, covered to keep warm.

Slice chicken into thin strips or 1” cubes.  Refrigerate, reserved in a small covered bowl, until ready to cook.

[If using tofu in place of animal protein, I find it best to stir fry it first, set it aside and add it back in at the end to heat it thoroughly without overcooking it.]

Slice mushrooms, julienne red pepper, chop broccoli and slice green onions into 1″ lengths. Set aside on a platter or cutting board.

Rinse pea pods and set aside.

Open can sliced bamboo shoots, rinse and drain. Set aside.

Chop ginger and garlic and set aside.

Pour chicken broth into small pitcher. Set aside.

Mix together soy sauce, mirin, cornstarch, and sugar. Set aside.

Toast nuts until golden brown. Set aside.  Do NOT cover them because the heat causes condensation which makes the nuts soggy.

Heat oil over moderately high heat. When the oil is hot, carefully add the mushrooms and red pepper, taking care to push them into the oil away from you rather than toward you to avoid splatter.

Stir fry for a minute or two and add the ginger.
Add the sesame oil for flavoring.

When the ginger gives off an aroma, add the garlic and the chicken and cook until the chicken is opaque and no longer pink inside.

Add peas, broccoli and (bean sprouts). Stir to mix and cook.
Pour broth over, stir, and simmer about 2 minutes, just until the broccoli is bright green.

Add bamboo shoots.

Stir in soy sauce mixture and cook until thickened.

Toss in the sliced white portion of the green onions.
Simmer to heat through, about 30 seconds or so.

Mix in green onion tops..

Serve over grains or noodles and sprinkle with nuts.

Don’t count on having any leftovers.  I never do.

Grilling Season Salad

An internet search for “grilled romaine” will yield many variations on this basic grilled lettuce.  This is my favorite iteration on a theme for a grilled salad to complete an entirely grilled summer meal.  The task of personalization for this common dish is in the dressing and accompaniments.

I like to serve it with a slightly tart Bourbon glazed rack of baby back pork ribs with a bright yellow cob of mellow, sweet corn.  The Balsamic Bacon dressing adds a touch of saltiness that reminds me of the ocean and brings all the flavors to a heightened sensation that is quite pleasing to the palate.

When serving this salad, I find it best to do it at the last minute, after everything else is cooked.  If you have help, someone else can even be plating the dinner while you finish the salad.  Once added to the plate, serve and enjoy!

It’s simple to prepare and makes a wonderful chopped, chilled salad as leftovers the next day if there are any leftovers.  Another variation is to add any leftover, chilled, grilled vegetables to the chopped lettuce along with shredded BBQ beef or chicken.  Ok, the variations are probably limitless!

Grilled Romaine Salad

(Serves 4-6)

2 – 3 heads romaine lettuce, cut in half lengthwise

4-5 Tbs. of olive oil

Half of one medium sized red onion, diced

½ pound of bacon, chopped into bacon bits

1/3- ½ cup crumbled Roquefort cheese

(You can substitute feta, gorgonzola or bleu cheese if you prefer)

½ cup good quality Balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground pepper

(Do NOT use salt because the cheese crumbles and bacon are salty enough!)

To assemble:

Preheat the grill, for about 10 minutes, to high heat.

When the grill is hot and ready, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a pan.  Add the chopped onions and stir to coat them.  Next, carefully add the bacon, being cautious of splatters, and cook together until the bacon is crispy and the onion is translucent and browning.

Very carefully, and slowly, pour in the Balsamic vinegar (splatters may occur) and another tablespoon of olive oil.  Stir slowly to combine this mixture.  It will be close to finished when the aroma begins to bowl you over.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool.  Be attentive to the pan handle and be sure it is safely out of the way.  Bacon grease splatters can leave terrible burns.

Brush the halved romaine lettuce with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Place each half on the grill with the cut side facing downward, and quickly sear the lettuce.  Turn and quickly sear the other side.  Remove from heat as soon as grill marks and mild wilting occur.

Serve the lettuce with the cut side facing up, and drizzle the Balsamic-Bacon dressing over the lettuce filling the nooks and crannies with salty goodness.  Sprinkle with the Roquefort cheese and add a few twists of fresh ground black pepper.

Coquito Nuts, Anyone?

My local produce manager and I enjoy a friendly competition of sorts whenever we face a new food.  While she possesses a (vastly) wider range of knowledge about fruits and vegetables than I do, I own the larger (and more creative) arsenal of cooking ideas and combinations.

Yesterday I knew something was up when I heard her giggling behind the mango display.  Before I could come closer, Ms. Manager pounced around the table and shoved a cellophane bag toward me.

The top of the bag held no identifying information because my dear friend, the self-proclaimed Produce Queen, had ripped the label off.  Ms. Manager commanded, “Don’t come any closer.  I don’t want you to see the back of this display.  Go home and figure out what to do with these babies.”

I took them home and put them in a bowl.  See:

I studied them, made a few calls, did some research and figured out their identity.  These are palm nuts.  They grow on the Coquito Palm of Chile, South America.  The palm sap was popular as a palm honey and a palm wine since each trees average yield was about 90 gallons.  Since the extraction of the sap causes the death of the tree, the Chilean government now protects these trees.  The fruit is also edible as is the nut.

This brown coquito nut, also called cockernut, looks like a miniature coconut.  It is about ½” to ¾” in diameter and has the same white meat texture on the inside.  These are quite crunchy (so good teeth are essential if you decide to bite into one) and the flavor is very similar to coconut with an almond-like sweetness.

Now I need to figure out how to use them.  They can, apparently, be softened by allowing them to sit in boiling water for approximately 20 minutes but I have no idea what to do with them after that.  So far, I decided I could coat them with chocolate but that’s about all I have devised.  Anyone have any ideas?

Queen of the Grain Salads: Quinoa Tabouleh

Lately I’ve been in pursuit of economical meals that are nutritionally balanced, offer a variety of flavors, and easy to prepare.  Middle Eastern dishes that use whole, fresh foods and pungent spices fit the bill perfectly.

Quinoa offered a fabulous spin on a traditional tabouleh salad by replacing the typical couscous or bulgar as the grain.  In an ongoing effort to save money and prevent waste, I used a combination of vegetables from my refrigerator drawer.

To my delight, the vegetables on hand comprised a rainbow of colors: purple cabbage, celery, red onion, Italian parsley, fresh mint, seeded bits of tomato, minced cucumber.  I enhanced this colorful medley with crumbles of feta cheese and toasted almond slivers.

Queen of the Grain Salads: Quinoa Tabouleh

A fresh and light dressing using 1 part olive oil to 3 parts fresh lemon juice with a pinch of sea salt and a couple of grinds of pepper perked up the mixture.

After a good tossing, it rested in the ‘fridge for about an hour—about the same time it took to set the table, enjoy a glass of wine and prepare the protein.

Skewered kofta kebabs complemented our Quinoa Tabouleh perfectly, accompanied by a Cucumber-Mint Tzatziki Sauce, to round out the meal for dinner although the tabouleh alone makes a fine lunch or vegetarian dinner.

Another twist adding fresh or leftover chopped meat, poultry, fish or tofu turns this into a healthful and balanced meal-in-one for lunch or dinner.

Quinoa Tabouleh

(Serves 4-6)

1 cup quinoa, uncooked

1/3 cup thinly sliced purple cabbage

1 celery stalk, sliced

½ red onion, chopped coarsely

½ cup Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup mint, sliced thinly

2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped finely

½ Kirby cucumber, finely diced

½ cup crumbled feta cheese

¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds

Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan.  Stir in 1 cup quinoa.  Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer 10-12 minutes until water is absorbed.  Remove from the heat, fluff the quinoa, cover again and let sit another 15 minutes.

Move the grain to a serving bowl, add in the vegetables and nuts and stir.  Reserve the feta until just prior to serving.  Dress the tabouleh with the olive oil/lemon mixture.  Stir well, cover and let it rest in the refrigerator for an hour before serving.  Add the feta, stirring to mix and remix the tabouleh, just prior to serving.

Remember this recipe was based on whatever I had on hand in my refrigerator.  Your vegetables may be different and widely varied so use your imagination and make your own signature tabouleh in the process!

(This can be served cold or at room temperature)

Leftovers? Waste NOT!

Sometimes the rhythm of life keeps me so busy that I barely notice the leftovers accumulating on the refrigerator shelves.  I’ve noticed that when we are entertaining guests, either for dinner or over a several day visit, the leftovers multiply at an alarming rate.

Additionally, during the course of a normal seven to ten day period, when one strives to create new meals several times daily, the leftover situation can easily spin out of control.  I hate waste!

My best defense against waste is my scheduled Twice-a-Week Sweep.  Pull out every container.  (I use reusable storage containers to limit paper/plastic/aluminum waste.)  A few food morsels and stray bones move to the freezer, before they spoil, for soups and stocks.

The fresher items, cooked meats and vegetables, wonderfully combine for a salvaged and flavor filled meal when used in a quiche or frittata, breakfast scramble or omelet, meat and vegetable filled pastry or incorporated into meatloaf.

My favorite waste-not meal, above all others, is the twice-baked potato.  This one combines minced bacon bits, fine strips of prosciutto, shredded Gruyere, chopped scallions, several dollops of sour cream and fresh ground sea salt and pepper.

I’m thrilled that I made two and have one leftover for tomorrow!

Chicken Soup: The Original Soul Food

When chicken soup simmers on the stove, it fills the kitchen with a fragrant aroma and its scent will slowly infuse the house.  Chicken soup evokes memories of mothers standing over the stove, grandmothers chopping vegetables and friends delivering nurturing broth to someone with a cold or flu.

Chicken soup graces tables worldwide.  Cubans use onion and garlic for flavor while Germans use celery, parsley, onions and garlic.  Eastern European mothers use sweet potatoes, turnips, carrots, chicken bits and onions.  The initial broth is one of the most versatile ingredients to have on hand.

Of all the recipes I taught to my children, the basic chicken broth proved to be one of the most important recipes.  The magical properties of chicken soup have been touted since the 12th century when Maimonides praised it in a treatise.

A flavorful chicken broth is the perfect base for a wide variety of soups, sauces, creamed vegetables, casseroles and is even considered to have medicinal qualities.

For years, medical researchers and doctors tried to demystify the healing properties of chicken soup.  Their conclusion, based on studies at Mt. Sinai Hospital, the University of Nebraska, the University of California at Los Angeles and several institutions in Europe, tout chicken soup as an alleviant for upper respiratory infections, congestion, depression, stress and as a mild anti-inflammatory for nasal passages and lungs.

Chicken soup can be served as a clear, clarified broth or a hearty bowl of meats, vegetables, and hot chilies.  It can be thickened with cornmeal or cornstarch, or made creamy with sour cream, heavy cream, milk or coconut milk.  The ethnic variations are endless.

When adding your own touch to a chicken stock, remember to add the vegetables near the end, perhaps the last hour depending on their size, to prevent overcooking them.

Hard herbs, like thyme or rosemary should be added in two parts.  Add half when the soup is half finished and the remainder about 15 minutes before the soup finishes.

Add any soft fresh herbs, like cilantro or basil, after the soup is removed from the heat and allow it to rest for several minutes.

In my home, chicken soups curative abilities have worked magic on broken hearts, chasing away an evening chill, and comforting runny noses and hacking coughs.  We always keep some old-fashioned homemade stock in the freezer.

Since the observance of Passover begins next week, this recipe adds matzo balls to my classic chicken soup.

CHICKEN SOUP with MATZO BALLS
Serves 12-14

4-5 lb. Stewing or roasting chicken – cut up, skin removed
4 previously frozen, reserved chicken carcasses, defrosted
1 large onion pierced with 8-10 cloves
1 large parsnip, peeled
1 stalk celery, with leaves
Several sprigs parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Clean the chicken in cold water.  Place in 6-quart stockpot.  Stick onion with cloves. Place in pot with parsnip, celery, parsley, salt and pepper. Add water to cover and bring to boil.

Skim the top of the soup and cover pot. Turn heat to simmer and cook slowly for 2-3 hours.  After the first hour, check to make sure the parsnip is not overcooked.  If it is soft, remove it with a strainer and discard.

Cool. Discard the onion, celery and parsnip, parsley.  Remove the chicken and save meat.  Remove the carcasses.  Refrigerate broth overnight.  Remove congealed fat.  Strain the soup.  Refrigerate again.  Remove any remaining congealed fat.

Taste for seasoning and adjust.  At this point, you may choose to add diagonally sliced carrots, a squirt of lemon juice and/or the reserved chicken (shredded).  Add matzo balls and reheat to serve.

MATZO BALLS
Yields about 12 large or 18 small matzo balls
(can be doubled or tripled with ease except for the salt.)
3 large eggs, separated
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash of white pepper
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup matzo meal

Combine egg yolks with salt, pepper, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

In another bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry.  Fold them slowly into the egg yolk mixture.

Slowly fold in the matzo meal, 1/4 cup at a time; it should be absorbed but still hold air and not become thick like paste.  You may not need the entire 3/4 cup; it all depends on the size of the yolks.  Cover and refrigerate.

Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a boil.  Remove the matzo ball mixture from the refrigerator.  Moisten hands with ice-cold water and form balls, dropping them gently into the boiling water.  Cover the pot.  Turn the heat to simmer and cook for about 40 minutes.

Carefully remove the matzo balls with a slotted spoon.  Add them to the chicken soup.  Simmer 15 minutes before serving.

The soup and matzo balls can be frozen separately for up to 3 months.  Feel free to jazz this up by adding a Puerto Rican sofrito (roasted onions, red peppers & tomatoes), a bit of horseradish hidden in each matzo ball, or a fresh sprig of dill to your stock.  Follow your tastebuds!

The Refrigerator Stack Dinner

Being home alone, for a week, with a refrigerator full of leftovers from various meals, meant I either had to jettison that food into the trash or eat it all myself. With an eye of discernment, I surveyed the scene and contemplated the different meals that those stray and unwanted foods might be coerced into to form a dinner for one.

I pulled out the ingredients that were reaching varying levels of spoilage and lined them up on the counter. What ensued was the creation of the Refrigerator Stack!   A not so novel yet healthful combination of leftovers that left me pleased and, if I do say so, quite happy with myself for saving good food from waste.

Should you ever find yourself facing a refrigerator with a variety of foods on the verge of suicide, here’s a quick and healthy remedy: One plate layered with fresh raw spinach. Top the spinach with raw Roma tomatoes. Grind some fresh salt and pepper over the tomatoes. Add a layer of grilled Portobello mushroom lightly seasoned with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and a tad more freshly ground salt and pepper. Then pick a generous amount of Daikon radish sprouts and add them to the stack. Top the whole thing with some grilled wild salmon and add a tasty yet complimentary combination of Dijon Mustard, ground peppercorns and cream as a condiment and Voila! You have a Refrigerator Stack Dinner!

Appetizer, Anyone?

Crispy Wonton filled with Spinach & Jalapeno Cheese

At a local restaurant the other night, I ordered an appetizer that was quite flavorful.  It was good yet I was looking for a bit more bang than it delivered.  I copied their basic idea of a stuffed fried wonton, tinkered around with the filling combination and ended up with a variation that I liked much better.

I chose to fill my wontons with a mixture of sautéed spinach, finely minced shallots and jalapenos in combination with just enough cream cheese to create a creamy filling.

A quick flash fry browned the wonton to a wonderful crispness and melted the cream cheese.  After I plated it, I served it with a roasted garlic cream sauce the same as the restaurant sauce.

This quick and easy appetizer is sure to please a crowd.  They called theirs “wonton pillows” on the menu, so I think I’ll opt to call mine “wonton clouds” since the filling was heavenly.

Almost Art Smiths Pistachio Chicken in Curry Sauce

Infrequently, I try a recipe that someone hands off to me. This one came from the Oprah website, a site known for a variety of offerings yet never a recipe that I’ve enjoyed without alteration or enhancement. This recipe was no different—so I made it not once but twice.

The first time I followed the recipe to the letter. It was overwhelmingly salty, had a bitter aftertaste of stale bay leaf (even though mine was fresh) and lacked pizazz but made me aware I had ingested it, all night long, in the form of indigestion. I can’t account for the reasons why since I used all fresh ingredients, but every so often the chemistry just isn’t quite romantic.

The second time I made it, it met with success. I omitted the brining process. I treated it to a buttermilk bath, with a hint of lemon, for the day, instead. I used the Parmesan that is added to the pistachio, but I coated both sides of the chicken—which wasn’t in the Oprah version. I understood the pistachio as something to add texture but the dish lacked a good crunch with the first version of coating only one side.

I used unsalted pistachios and brought out the flavor by toasting them. The Parmesan added enough saltiness by itself to make up for the unsalted nuts.

I also used my own Panang Red Curry Sauce resplendent with fresh lemongrass sans thyme and rosemary, omitting the chicken stock using coconut milk exclusively, omitting the wheat flour using rice flour to coat the chicken instead, finally replacing grape seed oil with peanut oil for more flavor—and ended up with a wonderful dish that was delicious!

In the end, I streamlined the recipe, omitted offending and conflicting flavors and served a delightful meal with healthy proteins dressed in a flavorful sauce over a bed of healthy rice noodles. In order to work in some nutritious vegetables, I served a vegetable-rich green salad with two cheeses as a side.

Here is my version of the original Art Smith Recipe, that was featured on Oprah’s website (Oprah Recipe) and MNBC’s website in video form (MSNBC recipe video) as well even though the two versions were different.

Pistachio-Crusted Chicken with Coconut Chili Ginger Sauce

Created by Chef Art Smith and Altered by Madame Donna C.

Ingredients:

Serves 4

Coconut Chili Ginger Sauce

* 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

* 2 shallots , minced

* 2 blades lemongrass , chopped

* 3 pieces (1/2-inch) fresh ginger , thinly sliced

* 1 cup sweet white wine

* 3-4 tablespoons Thai red curry paste

* 2-4 tablespoons Chinese black bean chili sauce

* 1 can (14 ounces) coconut milk

* 1/4 cup unsalted butter , softened and cut into pieces

* Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pistachio-Crusted Chicken

* 4 boneless chicken breasts

* 1/2 quart buttermilk

* 6 ounces or more, UNsalted pistachios , shelled and toasted

* 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

* 1 cup rice flour or AP flour

* Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

* Peanut oil to taste

For the sauce: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the tablespoon of butter, the shallots, lemongrass, ginger slices and wine. Reduce to half.

Add the red curry paste and Chinese black bean chili sauce and reduce to half again.

Add the coconut milk and reduce to half a third time. Remove from the heat and whisk the bits of butter into the sauce until all the butter has been incorporated.

If you are trying to eliminate fats,  you can leave this out.  The purpose of the butter is to add a glossy sheen to the sauce which is for aesthetics, not necessarily taste.

Season with salt and pepper.  If you reheat, do not allow the sauce to boil or the butter will separate.

For the chicken: Cut breasts in half.

With a meat mallet, pound until 1/4-inch thick and place in a non-reactive bowl. Pour the buttermilk over the chicken, cover, and let sit for at least 2 hours or more in the refrigerator.

In a food processor, place the pistachios and the parmesan cheese. Pulse 5 or 6 times until the mixture is finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl.

Preheat the oven to 250°.

Place the rice flour in another bowl and season with salt and pepper.  Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and prepare it for assembly.

Preheat a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-low heat with a thin coating of peanut oil.

Remove one breast, shake off any excess buttermilk and dust the breast with flour on each side.

Dip both sides of the chicken back in the buttermilk and press pistachios onto each side.

Repeat that step with all the chicken. Place the chicken in the sauté pan and cook for 2-3 minutes depending on the thickness of the chicken breast.

Turn and cook the other side for 2 to 3 minutes. Place in the oven to finish cooking for 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove, let rest for 5 minutes and then slice to serve with the Coconut Chile Ginger Sauce.

As I stated above, I served the Pistachio-encrusted Chicken over a nice mound of rice noodles with a generous serving of Panang Red Curry Sauce.

On the side, a vegetable-laden green salad counterbalanced the spicy curry with a cool and mild flavored complimentary taste experience.

Mixed greens with roasted beets, avocado, radish, tomato, jicama and 2 cheeses