San Diego: Food Expo at the Convention Center

One of the things I certainly know about Food Service and Food Production is that most consumer assumptions are false.  In any restaurant, there is no certainty that your food preparation occurred entirely by human hands or that the ingredients are pure unless you know the purveyor and have verification from their lips.  This is but one of the reasons I befriend restaurateurs whenever I can.

This past week I had the opportunity to attend the Food Expo in San Diego with one food manufacturer and two chefs.  We created quite a unique team when we first congregated at the door, each with their own agenda of what the important stops should be.

My food-manufacturing friend held an interest in large and noisy machines while my chef compatriots tried to rip me in half begging me to accompany them to different sides of the Convention Center.

Being an independent and rebellious individual puts me in good stead in these situations so I took off by myself for a couple of hours and found some noteworthy items.

If you’ve read anything I written before now, then you know I’m committed to real food.  You also know I have a penchant for fresh food like sushi and I believe in wasting nothing if it’s humanly possible to do so.

That means if you don’t like offal, you should have and keep a friend who does or at least maintain a compost pile.  On the other hand, quite hypocritically perhaps, I do endorse several prepared products if they meet stringent quality controls.  Therefore, I did and do taste and use several items that save time and effort as long as they don’t cost the consumer more than homemade fare.

So here we go to the Food Expo, which included Expo Comida Latina (also including an area of the show floor dedicated to Asian foods and flavors – All Asia Food), which rates among my favorites with over 300 booths of food, ingredients and services!

In addition to the Food Service portion, I enjoyed the “entertainment” aspect that included chef demos and contests for baristas.  Here are some of those shots:

Chef Plating contests intrigue me:

Although the task before us concerned restaurant fare, my interests were personal so we did view some wonderful displays of Food Service items and Dining Service ware:

The chefs and I managed to lose our Food Manufacturing friend for a good hour or so and we cut loose to enjoy the edible food art arena:

Of course, one of my favorite arenas displayed cake artistry:

Next in line, the Asian area, captured my fascination as an avid sushi enthusiast (see my article…).  These machines are designed to replace up to 3 sushi chefs.  If they are as good as hand rolled, I’ll give up my rolling mat.

The real food items, however, knocked the air out of me.  The Waygu beef melts on the tongue as the wasabi gives it a punch that you’ll remember as a supreme culinary moment.  Notice that’s a real wasabi horseradish, not the green colored goo that comes out of a tube!

Near the end of our tour of the floor, we stumbled across the “Hot Spot” where live cooking demonstrations by notable chefs occur.  The two chefs in my company couldn’t stop laughing and jostling me so my shots were blurred beyond recognition, but this is Brian Malarkey of Top Chef fame making a simple guacamole and some other dish that I didn’t catch the name of due to the raucous laughter from my companions.  I guess they don’t take celebrity seriously.  They claim you have to prove yourself in the kitchen and not television to be a serious cook.  I tend to concur.

We ended our experience in the Comida Latina arena where I imbibed a variety of mescals and tequilas accompanied by salsa, guacamole, asadas, moles, carnitas and an excellent and pleasing variety of other delectable foods.  I will certainly seek out the Tequila Reposed, Anejo and Crema Mescal that I tasted.  Exquisite!

If ever you are offered an opportunity to enjoy a trade show based upon food, don’t think about it, just go!

Breast of Chicken over Risotto Cake with Garlic Emulsion

Every now and then, an enticing recipe crosses my desk that I would love to serve immediately.  Since I’m not always prepared with fancy sauces and emulsions I must adapt the recipe in order to use it the same day.  While this sometimes compromises the character of the meal, it can also turn out as a delectable dish nonetheless.

The dish I prepared last night is a prime example of such a dilemma.  I found the recipe in a book entitled “Club Cuisine” by Edward G. Leonard near the end of 2006.

His recipe calls for a Brodo sauce that I did not have handy so I substituted a homemade chicken stock (reduced to the richness of a demiglace) that seemed similar to his Brodo.  I’ve found, since then, that regular homemade chicken stock suffices although it lacks the texture of a richer reduction sauce.  I also employed a few other adaptations in my version of the recipe that I present here.

This recipe is easier than it appears to be if you make the Risotto cakes ahead.  The risotto cakes hold up remarkably made one day in advance.  I also found that the Garlic emulsion does not suffer from being made ahead as well.  Simply take care when you reheat it to avoid separation from occuring and be prepared to liven it again with a stick blender or small processor.  The results were pleasing, delicate flavors that everyone enjoyed.

Breast of Chicken with Garlic Emulsion and Risotto Cake
Accompanied with Artichokes, Sun Dried Tomatoes and Sweet Peas

Chicken:
4 boneless, skinless breasts of chicken, lightly pounded
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons chopped thyme
Salt, to taste
Ground fresh pepper, to taste
3 Tablespoons Olive oil infused with sun-dried tomatoes

Risotto Cakes
(These can be made several hours in advance or up to one day ahead)
3 Tablespoons butter, unsalted
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 bunch scallions or 1 small leek, thinly sliced and diced
1 cup raw short grain Italian rice (Arborio)
2 ½ cups Chicken Stock, HOT
2 Tablespoons chopped basil
¾ cup grated Asiago cheese or Parmesan cheese
4 Tablespoons whole butter, unsalted
4 Tablespoons cream
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
As needed, butter for browning

Roasted Garlic Emulsion
1 cup garlic cloves
Chicken Stock as needed
2 Tablespoons honey
1 ounce unsalted butter
1/3 cup white wine (not a cheap one)
2 shallots, finely minced
1 ½ cups heavy cream
4-6 Tablespoons butter, unsalted, cold
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Vegetables
1 small jar marinated artichoke hearts, sliced

1 ½ cup petite peas, fresh if possible, Frozen, not canned if fresh are unavailable
2 Tablespoons whole butter, unsalted
Kosher salt, to taste
1/3 cup sun dried tomatoes in oil

(Sometimes I add flame roasted red pepper strips too.)

1. Preparation for the Risotto Cakes
(If you have a pressure cooker, this process takes about 15 minutes)

Place the butter and oil in a heavy bottomed pan.  Add the scallions or leeks and cook until they soften.

Add the rice and cook 1-2 minutes until slightly toasted.  Add half of the HOT chicken stock.  Bring to a simmer, and cook slowly until all the liquid is absorbed.

Add the remaining chicken stock and cook until it is absorbed and the rice is tender but still slightly firm.

Fold in the basil, Asiago, butter and cream.  Season with salt and pepper.  Spread the mixture in and 8 inch by 8-inch pan evenly.  Cool in the refrigerator.

When ready to use, cut the chilled mixture into desire shapes (I used circles from a biscuit cutter).  Pan-fry the cakes in foamy browned butter with a touch of olive oil until golden on each side.

2. Preparation for the Garlic Emulsion:

Place the garlic in a small pan and cover to ¾ depth with chicken stock.  Add the honey and butter.  Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the cloves are tender.  This takes about 10-12 minutes.  Remove garlic with a strainer and reserve the broth for later use.

In a saucepan, simmer the wine and shallots until reduced to about 1 ounce.

Add the garlic cloves to the wine reduction.  Add the cream and 2 ounces (about 2 Tablespoons) of the reserved garlic broth.  Simmer until the liquid reduces to half, about 20 minutes.

Puree the mixture with a hand blender, small food processor or upright blender, while slowly (and I mean slowly) adding the butter.

Strain the emulsion and season with salt, pepper and olive oil.

3. Chicken Preparation:

Place the chicken in a bowl with the olive oil, sun dried tomato infused olive oil, thyme, salt, and pepper.  Toss to season evenly.

The chicken can be grilled or roasted to your liking.  I roasted ours on a rack over a pan for about 6-8 minutes at 425 degrees.  Then I lowered the temperature to 325 for another 8-12 minutes until the chicken juices ran clear.  Keep the chicken warm.

4. Vegetable Preparation:

In a sauté pan, combine the artichoke hearts, peas, butter, and sun dried tomatoes with the remaining reserved garlic/chicken broth.  Cook just until heated.

5. Plate Assembly:

Place the risotto cake in the middle of the plate.  Drizzle a slight amount of garlic emulsion.  Place the chicken breast atop the risotto cake.  Drizzle slightly again with garlic emulsion.

Distribute the vegetable medley around the outside of the plate.  Leave dollops of garlic emulsion between the vegetables and the centerpiece of chicken.  Serve immediately.

Summer Grilling and Chillin’ with a Simple Salad

Something about summer draws a cook outdoors.  The thought of a hot kitchen pales next to the romantic idea of cooking in a shady spot enjoying a cooling evening breeze at dusk.

Usually all the ingredients for this meal fit on a handy tray and the utensils are few.  Summer is when we enjoy simpler foods, lighter flavors and little movement after a long hot day.

This meal takes about 20 minutes to prepare, a couple of hours to marinate and then it’s as easy as grill and serve!

Fajita Style Chicken with red and white mashed baby tates (grilled baby potatoes can be substituted).

The marinade for the chicken is simply this:

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

3 garlic cloves, finely minced

3 scallions, white parts only, sliced finely

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

pinch of salt

sprinkling of red pepper flakes

1 – 2 teaspoons, (or more depending on your heat preference), seeded,      fresh jalapeno, diced finely

Whisk all ingredients to blend thoroughly.

This is enough marinade for about 1 1/2 pounds of chicken breasts and/or thighs.  To save time, I simply gash the chicken 3-4 times with a sharp knife.  Put the chicken in a glass baking dish and cover with the marinade.  Cover the dish and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to 6 hours.  Grill the chicken until cooked through.  It will be firm to the touch.

To use this recipe for fajitas, simply cut the chicken into strips after it’s cooked.  Slicing can be done before cooking but it makes turning the chicken on the grill more of a challenge.

Add a side serving of Black Bean Salad:  black beans, seeded roma tomatoes, diced red onion and cubed avocado in a simple whisked vinaigrette of 1/4 cup red wine vinegar, 3/4 cup walnut  oil (although olive oil works too), dash of dijon mustard to taste, and freshly ground sea salt and pepper to taste.

The Black Bean Salad vegetable ingredients are measured according to your own tastes.  Use as much or as little of any ingredient as you like.  Drizzle the dressing over the vegetables, toss gently until coated, cover the bowl and refrigerate the salad and leftover dressing.

Leftovers make a fine lunch with a tall glass of iced tea.  Enjoy.

Meet Antoine!

Last week was a sad time in the kitchen.  My most valuable and reliable assistant left us.  Anyone who knows me knows the esteem, care and affection I give to the most important help in my kitchen.  Without my assistant, my kitchen comes to a screeching halt as it did last week.

Our trusty, 22 year old refrigerator, Julia, decided she was a celebrity and joined the ranks of Farrah, Michael, Ed and Billy.  She died.  She didn’t sputter or sigh, she simply stopped.

She led a happy, long life in quality service to our family and friends providing chilled and preserved refreshments for many years.  In fact, her constant humming helped many a small pup or babe to fall asleep on a cushiony mat on the floor.

Out of respect for Julia, we refrained from marketing, harvesting or cooking for most of the last week.  She floundered in the kitchen with her doors propped ajar until the appliance morticians appeared to remove her remains.  Scrubbed with care to a sanitary shine, her insides rested atop the patio table covered with a soft, flannel-backed vinyl tablecloth.

Today, in spite of the national holiday, the appliance mortician finally arrived for Julia.  In her stead, we received Antoine, a young and strong refrigerator eager to be of service for several decades to come.

Antoine’s name honors the famed agronomist, Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, (quite possibly my idol).  Parmentier was one of the first to study the process of refrigeration as a means of conserving food, was a strident promoter of the potato (my favorite food), the first to implement a mandatory smallpox vaccination (world health anyone?) in addition to founding a school of bread making (gotta love a guy who does that!).

Considering these achievements, which I revere, our new, aptly named kitchen assistant, Antoine, joins us to carry on in the good service of any cook who dances a flavorful waltz in our kitchen with the array of fun and useful instruments at their service.

Upon Antoine’s arrival, our neighbors all declared, “That ‘fridge means delicious, delicious business.”  We all hope so!

Cashew Chicken, My Way

Chinese style stir frying is a wonderful cooking method, especially for summertime, that uses a minimum of oil and high heat to rapidly sear the food, cook it to perfection and flavor it almost all at the same time.  Stir-frying works equally well on the indoor stovetop as it does on a grill, keeping kitchen heat to a minimum if not nil.

Since all the equipment required is a wok (or sauté pan) and a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle, clean up takes mere minutes.  I use a cutting board to hold all the chopped vegetables before using, a small bowl for the proteins, and a small pitcher (or two cup pyrex measuring cup) for the sauce.

Most of my Asian style recipes are flexible guides.  I like to change ingredients according to seasons as well as switching or even mixing proteins.  If you feel like eating seafood more than chicken, by all means make the substitution.  Just be sure to change your cooking time and ingredient order accordingly.

The sauce in this recipe has been tested on pork, poultry, tofu and seafood.  It works very well with each of them.  My inclination was not to use beef with it because it’s such a very light sauce and I have better suited, heavier sauces to use with beef.

For a vegetarian meal, omit the animal protein and increase the vegetable amounts and/or variety.  Go ahead and put your own signature on this dish.  It’s a good one to keep in mind following a visit to the Farmers Market too!  My recipe changes every time I make this meal.

Ingredients, approximately:

4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts or 8 thighs
1 medium sized red pepper, seeded and deveined, julienned
1/2 pound mushrooms
4 green onions, slice white portion, cut green tops into 1” lengths
1/2 pound pea pods and/or 2 cups broccoli sliced into small florets
1 can (15 oz) bamboo shoots, drained
1 heaping Tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
2 large garlic cloves, chopped finely
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 Tablespoons aji mirin or dry sherry
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3-4 Tablespoons peanut oil, approximately
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil (the real stuff—not kikkoman)
4 oz. cashew nuts or more depending on your preferences
(Bean sprouts, optional)

Serve over white rice, brown rice, quinoa, or your favorite grain. Rice or pasta noodles work well too.

Begin by preparing the grain or pasta.  Set aside, covered to keep warm.

Slice chicken into thin strips or 1” cubes.  Refrigerate, reserved in a small covered bowl, until ready to cook.

[If using tofu in place of animal protein, I find it best to stir fry it first, set it aside and add it back in at the end to heat it thoroughly without overcooking it.]

Slice mushrooms, julienne red pepper, chop broccoli and slice green onions into 1″ lengths. Set aside on a platter or cutting board.

Rinse pea pods and set aside.

Open can sliced bamboo shoots, rinse and drain. Set aside.

Chop ginger and garlic and set aside.

Pour chicken broth into small pitcher. Set aside.

Mix together soy sauce, mirin, cornstarch, and sugar. Set aside.

Toast nuts until golden brown. Set aside.  Do NOT cover them because the heat causes condensation which makes the nuts soggy.

Heat oil over moderately high heat. When the oil is hot, carefully add the mushrooms and red pepper, taking care to push them into the oil away from you rather than toward you to avoid splatter.

Stir fry for a minute or two and add the ginger.
Add the sesame oil for flavoring.

When the ginger gives off an aroma, add the garlic and the chicken and cook until the chicken is opaque and no longer pink inside.

Add peas, broccoli and (bean sprouts). Stir to mix and cook.
Pour broth over, stir, and simmer about 2 minutes, just until the broccoli is bright green.

Add bamboo shoots.

Stir in soy sauce mixture and cook until thickened.

Toss in the sliced white portion of the green onions.
Simmer to heat through, about 30 seconds or so.

Mix in green onion tops..

Serve over grains or noodles and sprinkle with nuts.

Don’t count on having any leftovers.  I never do.

Grilling Season Salad

An internet search for “grilled romaine” will yield many variations on this basic grilled lettuce.  This is my favorite iteration on a theme for a grilled salad to complete an entirely grilled summer meal.  The task of personalization for this common dish is in the dressing and accompaniments.

I like to serve it with a slightly tart Bourbon glazed rack of baby back pork ribs with a bright yellow cob of mellow, sweet corn.  The Balsamic Bacon dressing adds a touch of saltiness that reminds me of the ocean and brings all the flavors to a heightened sensation that is quite pleasing to the palate.

When serving this salad, I find it best to do it at the last minute, after everything else is cooked.  If you have help, someone else can even be plating the dinner while you finish the salad.  Once added to the plate, serve and enjoy!

It’s simple to prepare and makes a wonderful chopped, chilled salad as leftovers the next day if there are any leftovers.  Another variation is to add any leftover, chilled, grilled vegetables to the chopped lettuce along with shredded BBQ beef or chicken.  Ok, the variations are probably limitless!

Grilled Romaine Salad

(Serves 4-6)

2 – 3 heads romaine lettuce, cut in half lengthwise

4-5 Tbs. of olive oil

Half of one medium sized red onion, diced

½ pound of bacon, chopped into bacon bits

1/3- ½ cup crumbled Roquefort cheese

(You can substitute feta, gorgonzola or bleu cheese if you prefer)

½ cup good quality Balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground pepper

(Do NOT use salt because the cheese crumbles and bacon are salty enough!)

To assemble:

Preheat the grill, for about 10 minutes, to high heat.

When the grill is hot and ready, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a pan.  Add the chopped onions and stir to coat them.  Next, carefully add the bacon, being cautious of splatters, and cook together until the bacon is crispy and the onion is translucent and browning.

Very carefully, and slowly, pour in the Balsamic vinegar (splatters may occur) and another tablespoon of olive oil.  Stir slowly to combine this mixture.  It will be close to finished when the aroma begins to bowl you over.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool.  Be attentive to the pan handle and be sure it is safely out of the way.  Bacon grease splatters can leave terrible burns.

Brush the halved romaine lettuce with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Place each half on the grill with the cut side facing downward, and quickly sear the lettuce.  Turn and quickly sear the other side.  Remove from heat as soon as grill marks and mild wilting occur.

Serve the lettuce with the cut side facing up, and drizzle the Balsamic-Bacon dressing over the lettuce filling the nooks and crannies with salty goodness.  Sprinkle with the Roquefort cheese and add a few twists of fresh ground black pepper.

Coquito Nuts, Anyone?

My local produce manager and I enjoy a friendly competition of sorts whenever we face a new food.  While she possesses a (vastly) wider range of knowledge about fruits and vegetables than I do, I own the larger (and more creative) arsenal of cooking ideas and combinations.

Yesterday I knew something was up when I heard her giggling behind the mango display.  Before I could come closer, Ms. Manager pounced around the table and shoved a cellophane bag toward me.

The top of the bag held no identifying information because my dear friend, the self-proclaimed Produce Queen, had ripped the label off.  Ms. Manager commanded, “Don’t come any closer.  I don’t want you to see the back of this display.  Go home and figure out what to do with these babies.”

I took them home and put them in a bowl.  See:

I studied them, made a few calls, did some research and figured out their identity.  These are palm nuts.  They grow on the Coquito Palm of Chile, South America.  The palm sap was popular as a palm honey and a palm wine since each trees average yield was about 90 gallons.  Since the extraction of the sap causes the death of the tree, the Chilean government now protects these trees.  The fruit is also edible as is the nut.

This brown coquito nut, also called cockernut, looks like a miniature coconut.  It is about ½” to ¾” in diameter and has the same white meat texture on the inside.  These are quite crunchy (so good teeth are essential if you decide to bite into one) and the flavor is very similar to coconut with an almond-like sweetness.

Now I need to figure out how to use them.  They can, apparently, be softened by allowing them to sit in boiling water for approximately 20 minutes but I have no idea what to do with them after that.  So far, I decided I could coat them with chocolate but that’s about all I have devised.  Anyone have any ideas?

Queen of the Grain Salads: Quinoa Tabouleh

Lately I’ve been in pursuit of economical meals that are nutritionally balanced, offer a variety of flavors, and easy to prepare.  Middle Eastern dishes that use whole, fresh foods and pungent spices fit the bill perfectly.

Quinoa offered a fabulous spin on a traditional tabouleh salad by replacing the typical couscous or bulgar as the grain.  In an ongoing effort to save money and prevent waste, I used a combination of vegetables from my refrigerator drawer.

To my delight, the vegetables on hand comprised a rainbow of colors: purple cabbage, celery, red onion, Italian parsley, fresh mint, seeded bits of tomato, minced cucumber.  I enhanced this colorful medley with crumbles of feta cheese and toasted almond slivers.

Queen of the Grain Salads: Quinoa Tabouleh

A fresh and light dressing using 1 part olive oil to 3 parts fresh lemon juice with a pinch of sea salt and a couple of grinds of pepper perked up the mixture.

After a good tossing, it rested in the ‘fridge for about an hour—about the same time it took to set the table, enjoy a glass of wine and prepare the protein.

Skewered kofta kebabs complemented our Quinoa Tabouleh perfectly, accompanied by a Cucumber-Mint Tzatziki Sauce, to round out the meal for dinner although the tabouleh alone makes a fine lunch or vegetarian dinner.

Another twist adding fresh or leftover chopped meat, poultry, fish or tofu turns this into a healthful and balanced meal-in-one for lunch or dinner.

Quinoa Tabouleh

(Serves 4-6)

1 cup quinoa, uncooked

1/3 cup thinly sliced purple cabbage

1 celery stalk, sliced

½ red onion, chopped coarsely

½ cup Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup mint, sliced thinly

2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped finely

½ Kirby cucumber, finely diced

½ cup crumbled feta cheese

¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds

Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan.  Stir in 1 cup quinoa.  Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer 10-12 minutes until water is absorbed.  Remove from the heat, fluff the quinoa, cover again and let sit another 15 minutes.

Move the grain to a serving bowl, add in the vegetables and nuts and stir.  Reserve the feta until just prior to serving.  Dress the tabouleh with the olive oil/lemon mixture.  Stir well, cover and let it rest in the refrigerator for an hour before serving.  Add the feta, stirring to mix and remix the tabouleh, just prior to serving.

Remember this recipe was based on whatever I had on hand in my refrigerator.  Your vegetables may be different and widely varied so use your imagination and make your own signature tabouleh in the process!

(This can be served cold or at room temperature)

Leftovers? Waste NOT!

Sometimes the rhythm of life keeps me so busy that I barely notice the leftovers accumulating on the refrigerator shelves.  I’ve noticed that when we are entertaining guests, either for dinner or over a several day visit, the leftovers multiply at an alarming rate.

Additionally, during the course of a normal seven to ten day period, when one strives to create new meals several times daily, the leftover situation can easily spin out of control.  I hate waste!

My best defense against waste is my scheduled Twice-a-Week Sweep.  Pull out every container.  (I use reusable storage containers to limit paper/plastic/aluminum waste.)  A few food morsels and stray bones move to the freezer, before they spoil, for soups and stocks.

The fresher items, cooked meats and vegetables, wonderfully combine for a salvaged and flavor filled meal when used in a quiche or frittata, breakfast scramble or omelet, meat and vegetable filled pastry or incorporated into meatloaf.

My favorite waste-not meal, above all others, is the twice-baked potato.  This one combines minced bacon bits, fine strips of prosciutto, shredded Gruyere, chopped scallions, several dollops of sour cream and fresh ground sea salt and pepper.

I’m thrilled that I made two and have one leftover for tomorrow!

Chicken Soup: The Original Soul Food

When chicken soup simmers on the stove, it fills the kitchen with a fragrant aroma and its scent will slowly infuse the house.  Chicken soup evokes memories of mothers standing over the stove, grandmothers chopping vegetables and friends delivering nurturing broth to someone with a cold or flu.

Chicken soup graces tables worldwide.  Cubans use onion and garlic for flavor while Germans use celery, parsley, onions and garlic.  Eastern European mothers use sweet potatoes, turnips, carrots, chicken bits and onions.  The initial broth is one of the most versatile ingredients to have on hand.

Of all the recipes I taught to my children, the basic chicken broth proved to be one of the most important recipes.  The magical properties of chicken soup have been touted since the 12th century when Maimonides praised it in a treatise.

A flavorful chicken broth is the perfect base for a wide variety of soups, sauces, creamed vegetables, casseroles and is even considered to have medicinal qualities.

For years, medical researchers and doctors tried to demystify the healing properties of chicken soup.  Their conclusion, based on studies at Mt. Sinai Hospital, the University of Nebraska, the University of California at Los Angeles and several institutions in Europe, tout chicken soup as an alleviant for upper respiratory infections, congestion, depression, stress and as a mild anti-inflammatory for nasal passages and lungs.

Chicken soup can be served as a clear, clarified broth or a hearty bowl of meats, vegetables, and hot chilies.  It can be thickened with cornmeal or cornstarch, or made creamy with sour cream, heavy cream, milk or coconut milk.  The ethnic variations are endless.

When adding your own touch to a chicken stock, remember to add the vegetables near the end, perhaps the last hour depending on their size, to prevent overcooking them.

Hard herbs, like thyme or rosemary should be added in two parts.  Add half when the soup is half finished and the remainder about 15 minutes before the soup finishes.

Add any soft fresh herbs, like cilantro or basil, after the soup is removed from the heat and allow it to rest for several minutes.

In my home, chicken soups curative abilities have worked magic on broken hearts, chasing away an evening chill, and comforting runny noses and hacking coughs.  We always keep some old-fashioned homemade stock in the freezer.

Since the observance of Passover begins next week, this recipe adds matzo balls to my classic chicken soup.

CHICKEN SOUP with MATZO BALLS
Serves 12-14

4-5 lb. Stewing or roasting chicken – cut up, skin removed
4 previously frozen, reserved chicken carcasses, defrosted
1 large onion pierced with 8-10 cloves
1 large parsnip, peeled
1 stalk celery, with leaves
Several sprigs parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Clean the chicken in cold water.  Place in 6-quart stockpot.  Stick onion with cloves. Place in pot with parsnip, celery, parsley, salt and pepper. Add water to cover and bring to boil.

Skim the top of the soup and cover pot. Turn heat to simmer and cook slowly for 2-3 hours.  After the first hour, check to make sure the parsnip is not overcooked.  If it is soft, remove it with a strainer and discard.

Cool. Discard the onion, celery and parsnip, parsley.  Remove the chicken and save meat.  Remove the carcasses.  Refrigerate broth overnight.  Remove congealed fat.  Strain the soup.  Refrigerate again.  Remove any remaining congealed fat.

Taste for seasoning and adjust.  At this point, you may choose to add diagonally sliced carrots, a squirt of lemon juice and/or the reserved chicken (shredded).  Add matzo balls and reheat to serve.

MATZO BALLS
Yields about 12 large or 18 small matzo balls
(can be doubled or tripled with ease except for the salt.)
3 large eggs, separated
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash of white pepper
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup matzo meal

Combine egg yolks with salt, pepper, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

In another bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry.  Fold them slowly into the egg yolk mixture.

Slowly fold in the matzo meal, 1/4 cup at a time; it should be absorbed but still hold air and not become thick like paste.  You may not need the entire 3/4 cup; it all depends on the size of the yolks.  Cover and refrigerate.

Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a boil.  Remove the matzo ball mixture from the refrigerator.  Moisten hands with ice-cold water and form balls, dropping them gently into the boiling water.  Cover the pot.  Turn the heat to simmer and cook for about 40 minutes.

Carefully remove the matzo balls with a slotted spoon.  Add them to the chicken soup.  Simmer 15 minutes before serving.

The soup and matzo balls can be frozen separately for up to 3 months.  Feel free to jazz this up by adding a Puerto Rican sofrito (roasted onions, red peppers & tomatoes), a bit of horseradish hidden in each matzo ball, or a fresh sprig of dill to your stock.  Follow your tastebuds!